— Ellie Broughton

Food & drink

Philip Wilton, who runs Wildes in Tottenham, making and selling artisanal cheeses such as the semi-hard cow’s milk Ally Pally White, says the lack of information about Brexit is leaving his business vulnerable

As the value of the pound falls and costs rise, Brexit will stretch small and independent British cheesemakers and -mongers to breaking point. Sadly, this might be a crisis that we can’t just eat our way out of.

Read more of this feature on Eater, and see coverage of my story by London newspaper City AM and The Independent.

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Spring is in the air, and for chocoholics that can only mean one thing. Easter eggs are inspired by the traditional symbolism of the egg as promising new life, but for anyone who’s started a new life as a vegan or is dairy intolerant, they can evoke sad memories of an easier life when you didn’t have to check ingredients lists before buying.

Luckily the dairy-free egg market gets stronger every year, and we found plenty of quality, tasty options to try.

Click here to head over and see the best in show.


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As part of Time Out’s reviews team, alongside Ashleigh Arnott, Josie Ayre, Tania Ballantine, Elizabeth Darke, Kitty Drake, Danielle Goldstein, Steph Hartman, Andy Hill, Emma Hughes, Laura Richards and Yolanda Zappaterra, I reviewed Scandal Water at Punch Room at the London Edition.

Afternoon tea in the Punch Room nods back to the way it would have been in eighteenth and nineteenth century: tea is served without milk, there’s an open fire in winter, and muffins come in repro muffin-warmers. The rest of the tea is bang up to date, though, down to the cool London-themed willow-pattern china, the sustainable credentials of the tea, and our favourite twenty-first-century upgrade: punch. Choose three cups of loose-leaf tea, then food and punch are matched. Cheese shortbread, ganache tart and eccles cake came in canapé-sized mouthfuls that won’t sate the typical arvo tea appetite. But you didn’t come to Punch Room for the grub, did you? Read the rest of the review, and the rest of the round-up, online here.

Elsewhere on Time Out:

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Hot shot: a bartender pours a drink to go with one of the bar's snacks, served on a slab of pink salt. Photograph: Alex Zalewska

Hot shot: a bartender pours a drink to go with one of the bar’s snacks, served on a slab of pink salt. Photograph: Alex Zalewska

No, it’s not behind any wall. It’s down some stairs and if it’s behind anything, it’s velvet curtains. Other than its name, though, guests are unlikely to quibble with there being a new bar on the Narrow Way.

Alex Harris opened Behind This Wall (previously used as storage for a local Turkish social club) back in February after many years working in food and drink for the Soho House group.

He is a London lad who grew up in Baltimore and returned to the capital to settle in Bethnal Green. The East Coast connection pops up on the menu in a few places (Vermont whiskey and cheddar, oysters, Providence Martinis) but the atmosphere in his bar is otherwise pure Hackney.

I reviewed the bar for the Hackney Citizen’s November 2016 issue. To read more from my brief spell as the features editor at the paper when I first went freelance or read some of the features I wrote afterwards for the sister paper, the East End Review, head over to the site, or go straight:

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Our city’s history can very easily be viewed through beer goggles. Fashions and technologies have changed over the centuries and the current renaissance of craft ales is just the latest twist in a boozy tale that predates the city itself.

On Londonist: the history of London in five beers.


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